Armani, Cavalli, Dolce&Gabbana, Fendi, Gucci, Prada, Valentino, Versace - the merry-go-round of world-famous Italian fashion designers is filled to the brim. The history of Italian chic dates back to the beginning of the 20th century, when the craftsmanship of local artisans was appreciated in the salons.
Italian style was the answer to french chic, for Italians too refined, stiffly elegant and far too polite. Known for their colourful and boisterous temperament, Italians, especially after the end of the First World War, wanted joy in their lives, a feast of colours and an emphasis on their individuality. They had always valued their incredibly skilled craftsmen - fine artists, tailors, shoemakers and leatherworkers from whom they placed individual orders. But the time came when they decided to show their designs to a wide audience.
In the beginning there was... Prada
The first name to forge a golden record in fashion history is Prada. The founder of the dynasty, headed since the 1970s by his granddaughter Miuccia, specialized in leather goods. He opened his first shop offering such a range in Milan in 1913. A few years later, Guccio Gucci began to build his empire in Florence. He was also fascinated by leather goods, but of a larger size - suitcases and travel bags, which laid the foundation for his subsequent designs. He did not hesitate to conquer the American market, which undoubtedly turned the fashion industry's spotlight on this part of Europe. The Fendi clan, elevated to the top in the 1960s by Karl Lagerfeld, started in the capital in 1925. Their speciality to this day is natural furs.
In the 1920s Italian women shortened their hair and skirts. They are becoming more and more liberated. They are not afraid to reveal more and more of their bodies. They are increasingly willing to wear trousers, until then reserved only for men. The clothes have to be sexy but also comfortable, especially for dancing, which they love so much. Fashions must not be overdone; every woman should be able to make whatever outfit she wants and what the magazines are promoting.
The 1930s changed these trends. Emphasizing feminine curves is no longer in vogue. The times of industrial crisis divide female consumers into those who must dress modestly and those for whom expensive clothes are designed. From now on, fashion will define social and financial status. Some designs will forever be for the elite only.
To be like a film star
After the end of the Second World War, many beautiful women began their careers in Italian cinema and immediately became symbols to be emulated. They emphasised the slim waistlines and prominent hips so characteristic of the hourglass body shape of the inhabitants of sunny Italy. "To dress is to seduce" is the catchphrase for pulling off more pieces of fabric from women and revealing more parts of the body. Audrey Hepburn, Elizabeth Taylor or Brigitte Bardot made Italian designers internationally famous.
Despite appearances to the contrary, Florence, not Milan, was the first capital of Italian fashion. It was there, in the early 1950s, that the first show by Italian creatives aimed at foreign buyers and journalists took place. This was an important step in the battle for the global customer. Subsequent designers took advantage of it. In Gallarate in 1953, Ottavio Missoni set up his own brand, whose trademark to this day is knitwear interwoven with coloured thread. Valentino launched in Rome in 1960 starting with a haute couture collection. He was immediately loved by american women who proudly wore the designs marked with the distinctive V sign.
More than a decade later Giorgio Armani's talent was revealed. His flagship products became suits, including the one in which Diane Keaton received her Oscar. Around the same time, Roberto Cavalli entered the industry, which in turn won the hearts of music stars over time. In the late 1970s, they were joined with a bump by Gianni Versace, who started in Milan but soon moved to Miami, from where he headed his fashion empire. After his death, his sister, Donatella, took over the business. Although she has been accused of kitschiness of style, there is still no shortage of takers for clothes, accessories and home furnishings from which the mythical Medusa looks on. Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, on the other hand, are the youngest designer duo, but no less famous than their predecessors, who launched in the mid-1980s and have been winning the hearts of lovers of the latest trends ever since. Their timeless sicilian dress has thin straps, a fitted top and a long flared hem.
Ready-to-wear
Although most established designers started by creating "high fashion", or haute couture (Italian for alta moda), in the 1970s and 1980s they had to adapt to the needs of the market and open ready-to-wear lines, i.e. clothes ready to wear every day. The baton of the fashion capital in 1958 was taken over by the booming Milan, which hosted the Milan Fashion Week for the first time and featured the most famous models of the time on the catwalks. Over time the Italians have come to the forefront in artful accessories: shoes, handbags, jewellery, eyewear and hats. They also create beautiful fragrances.
Contemporary Made in Italy style can be described as unforced elegance. Italian women know exactly how to emphasise their femininity - which part of the body to emphasise and which to cover up. They value high-quality materials. They prefer to have fewer shoes, but for years. They are minimalists, but if they need to show off, they do so in all their glory. They love strong colours and distinctive accessories. Of course, everything preferably from their local artisans and designers. Fashion is for them, not - as in neighbouring France, for example - them for fashion.
Italian designers in the Vitkac department store:
