Pierre Balmain – before he established his Maison - was caught up with the process of designing movie and stage costumes. What today’s Balmain inherited from his passion and what is the brand’s approach to the aesthetics of its master? Discover the story of a fashion creator who had an untameable imagination.
Pierre Balmain is one of the most prestigious fashion houses in Paris. The brand was established just after World War II as a bold and ultra-feminine response to utilitarian, practical, casual attire. Pierre Balmain, a protégé of Lucien Lelong, learned his line of work from his master.
Lelong had an innovative approach to haute couture which until then was just art for art’s sake. Followed his cues, Balmain made female collections and VIP clientele (Sophia Loren, Brigitte Bardot or Marlene Dietrich) his priority. At the same time, he was gaining favourable reviews from the Parisian elite, seemingly uninterested in that shallow topic.
His silhouettes were praised by Gertrude Stein and Alice B. Toklas – influential figures from the milieu de l'art, befriended with Pablo Picasso and Ernest Hemingway. Few people know how painful was his career path, though.
Pierre Balmain – architect, costume maker and designer
Even though Pierre Balmain’s grandfather was the owner of a wholesale drapery business and his mother with his sisters ran a fashion boutique, he refused to take a similar path at first. Pierre studied architecture at the prestigious École des Beaux-Arts, although his mother, fearing for his future, dreamed for him of a career as a doctor. Pierre dropped out of college and wrote to Robert Piguet, the aforementioned Lelong, Jeanne Lanvin and Edward Molyneux asking for a job offer. He managed to get his first job for Molyneux, Lelong’s fellow professional. Actually, Balmain was already working for Piguet and Christian Dior, his future rival.
Balmain
Draped dress
Balmain
Cotton body
Balmain
Wool shorts
Dropping out of college wasn’t such a disaster for Pierre at all. Balmain said that creating clothes is architecture in motion. He was one of the first who slenderised female silhouette with proper cuts and his signature elongated seams. He also emphasized the ideal hourglass female body shape. His garments with an accentuated waist, a double-breasted jacket, skirts and flared dresses were among the most sought-after styles at the time. Besides ready-to-wear collections, Pierre Balmain loved to create eveningwear.
The French couturier always made sure to make his clients feel like stars regardless of their status. His creations can be seen in Bonnes à tuer (1954), Rififi (1955), Paris Holiday (1958) or Cats (1964).
What are the cult designs of this fashion house?
Balmain jacket and other iconic garments.
Speaking of the brand’s styles, it would be negligence not to mention Balmain’s classic jacket in two variations: crystal-encrusted one and a smooth one (a classic double-breasted jacket with oversized buttons).
Both designs are distinguished by sharp cuts (including an elevated shoulder line) and a strong, slim-fitting silhouette. Collections of the brand also encompass more civil, office-inspired jackets.
Balmain
Long jacket
Balmain
Blazer with logo
Balmain
Denim jacket
One of the brand’s worth mentioning flagship offers is a line of dresses, instantly recognizable among devoted fans. Boasting the signature bodycon cut, the dresses evoke the ‘80s but remain modern at the same time. They are usually rendered in a mini or midi body-hugging silhouette enhanced by captivating cut-outs and draping. They highlight a woman’s bust, shoulders and waist - consider this style in your wardrobe edit!
Balmain
Long-sleeved dress
Balmain
Long sleeve dress
Balmain
Long sleeve dress
Thinking of buying one of the designer’s pieces? You can start with Balmain accessories and perfumes. Some proposals like Ambre Gris Balmain de Balmain or Ivoire are collector’s items at the moment!
Legacy and future of Pierre Balmain fashion house
Slenderising of a female figure and establishing a timeless hourglass silhouette went down in the history of the brand as a post-war revolution. After Pierre Balmain's death in 1982, the brand, with Erik Mortensen at the helm, initially presented safe, classic styles, spruced up with unique accessories.
The fashion house was awarded the France Haute Couture Golden Thimble Award twice (for the A/W collection in 1983-1984 and the A/W collection in 1987-1988).
In the 90s, the fashion house lowered its sights, having trouble with finding its place in the minimalist trend represented by Calvin Klein, and the extremely sexual and provocative trend represented by Versace.
Searching for a new aesthetics that would correspond with Pierre Balmain's DNA, the brand went on to present ballsy rock&roll designs in the late 2000s and an impressive amount of incrustations. Christophe Decarnin’s decision to refresh the brand’s portfolio was a big success.
Urban chic with a hint of feisty accents caught celebrities’ and influencers’ fancy. Due to Balmain’s 2015 partnership with H&M, the brand managed to reach larger audiences. Interestingly enough, despite the budget collections of crystal-embellished jackets, double-breasted blazers and accessories, Balmain remained a luxury label.
Under the creative supervision of Christophe Decarnin and currently Olivier Rousteing, the brand secured youthful energy and a dynamic appearance. Today’s Balmain is synonymous with contemporary elegance.
