For Donatella Versace, modernity and youth are the two most important characteristics that dominate her collections. This was no different in the Spring-Summer 2017 season. Inspired by athletic and sporty male silhouettes, she presented a collection that allows for freedom of movement and functional use of clothing. The modern man, according to her, is full of energy, spends time outdoors, and is not afraid of new challenges. Delicate and airy nylon jackets from Versace are paired with knits and silk shirts, which temptingly reveal the muscular torsos of the models. All this has been arranged in monochromatic sets. The catwalk is dominated by neutral colours: navy, beige, black, khaki, and purple. When designing her collection, Donatella found inspiration in songs written specially for her by the recently deceased Prince. The presence of purple on the catwalk is a tribute that the designer paid to her faithful friend and author of "Purple Rain". Donatella focuses on maxi style jackets, reaching midway down the calf. The sporty character of the windbreakers is emphasized by drawstrings and a full, practical hood.
Once again, designers are referring to the military style. Therefore, this season, camouflage and military green from Givenchy or Moncler Gamme Bleu will be a fashionable and solid choice. Givenchy proposes strong and multifunctional parkas in classic military camouflage. A wide hood, numerous pockets and a practical length halfway up the calf emphasize the sporty nature of the collection. Moncler Gamme Bleu combines the dignity and elegance of suits inspired by the sand uniforms of the French Foreign Legion with sporty and waterproof jackets in olive and navy black shades. An interesting concept is the use of long jackets, almost reaching the ground, with short sleeves. Military parkas can also be found in the Lanvin collection. However, the most important for spring jackets is a loose shape that does not restrict movements, finished with spacious pockets and adjustable cords.
The longer, the better! Sporty jackets with a hood, whether made of thin, mist-like nylon in the style of Versace, or heavy material that protects against cold, in the style of Dior Homme or Lanvin, should be as long as possible. Lanvin, following the couture hiker trend, proposes its version of a sporty windbreaker: a brown jacket almost reaching the middle of the calf, reminiscent of a cowboy coat from Clint Eastwood's westerns. Meanwhile, Dior Homme goes even lower - its proposal is an ankle-length coat, reminiscent of a high-fashion version of fishermen's storm jackets. Windbreakers below the knee can also be found in the Fendi, Balmain and Kenzo collections.