Military lineage
Can’t tell what chino pants are? Remember Denzel Washington’s sandy uniform in Crimson Tide or white US Navy suit of captain Maverick from Top Gun, played by Tom Cruise.
To be specific, chino refers to the material from which uniforms for British and French troops were made of in the second half of the 19th century. 100% durable and comfortable cotton in neutral colors was made in China and the name of the product is associated with this country. Just like other garments designed in Europe, chinos also conquered textile market for the United States. Military trousers made an exodus from the military after the Philippine-American war at the end of 19th century when war veterans started wearing them on a daily basis. Yet the the most significant impact chinos made amid civilians after World War II when sewing rooms launched their supplies for the commercial market.
Main challenges: simplicity and camouflage
The main actors in the production process of chinos were functionality and… a budget. As that piece of uniform was manufactured in bulk, every scrap of material was at a premium. This is the reason behind the uncomplicated shape of those trousers which were stripped of additional ornaments, stripes or patch pockets. They have a straight-leg cut sometimes dignified with a frontal pleat. The most representative feature of this item are inseam slant pockets on the sides and welt pockets on the rear fastened via (most often) plastic button.
The most commonly used color of cotton was khaki, beige and faded brown - not without a reason. In 1848 Harry Lumsden, British military officer commanding a force at India and Afghanistan border, came to the conclusion that yellow green would be a much better option for a camouflage than blood-red tops of the uniforms. Curiously, Latin chino means burnt - what refers to the classic coloring of the trousers.
Straight from economy to business class - preppy look
Chino trousers have a vast history in the civilian background so it’s hard to understand they were once considered cheap. Chinos are inherently linked with preppy class - distinguished cluster of white varsity youth that is well-behaved, mild-mannered and come from good home. Those kids were banned from wearing jeans as they were associated with the working class. That’s why versatile chinos, making a good match with varsity uniforms, were a natural option for Ivy League students.
Fashion fade but style is eternal
Today, classic designs like chinos are keenly revisited on the catwalks. Designers mingle them with every piece of garment possible. The latest interpretation of the vintage style is defined by oversize fit in the form of wide legs - just like J.Crew and Gucci do. Collection of the latter is a direct reference to the 70s and 80s, when garish colors and overplayed silhouettes prevailed. Oversize fit is also employed by Lanvin, giving nonchalant lightness to pants crafted from lustrous fabric. Michael Kors regales us with narrow-leg trousers bathed in greys, beiges and ash-coloured tints. By utilizing beige and brown varsity retro check pattern, Kors composes timeless pieces.
But Salvatore Ferragamo remains king of the traditional, yet original, approach to chinos. With his regalia-inspired designs he alludes to the academic preppy style. The rhythm of Ferragamo’s runway march is beat by oxford shoes. Jet set chinos with cuffed hem exposing naked male ankles - that’s an interesting take on military trousers by Jeffrey Rudes.
Colors dominant on the catwalks are beige, brown, black, navy blue and maroon. Designers are also vacating the original 100% cotton construction and producing trousers from suit wools and tweed.
