"I wanted to dress women who live and work, not those that appear in pictures."
- Giorgio Armani
Giorgio Armani was born on July 11, 1934, in a medium-sized town in northern Italy, in Piacenza not far from Milan. His family was not among the richest, and his childhood was forever marked by the cruelty of World War II.
"Cinemas in Milan were a refuge - a place where you could dream - and movie stars looked so phenomenal." In this way, young Giorgio fell more and more in love with the beautiful and impeccable gloss of Hollywood stars.
He never dreamed of working in fashion, and his family had no connection with the clothing industry. Because he became interested in human anatomy as a child, he began studying at the University in Piacenza, in the medical field. However, after 3 years, he was drafted into military service, after which he never returned to university. All because... he began working as an assistant decorator of a shop window in Milan.
Armani himself admits that his career as a fashion designer was never planned, and the place where he is now is due to chance.
During a break from military service, he decided to visit a friend living in Milan, which was already famous for its fashion connotations. His 20-day stay in the city made Armani decide to try his hand as a shop window decorator in La Rinascente after finishing his military service.
For years he tried to find himself in the fashion world, selling his individual projects to various clothing brands. After some time, he began working as a men's clothing designer at Nino Cerruti. "I was fine. Just fine," Armani tells GQ magazine about this period of his work.
However, this almost 40-year-old man, just starting his career, decided to achieve more. In 1974, at the request of his partner, Sergio Galeotti, he decided to go a step further. Putting all his eggs in one basket, with money from the sale of a Volkswagen, he decided to start his own business: Giorgio Armani S.p.A.. He was to be the designer, and Sergio took care of the business side of running the company. That same year, his first men's clothing line saw the light of day. A year later, the designer also created a women's collection.
All aspiring businessmen desired suits by Armani. The designer's suits became a symbol of success and uncompromising approach to conducting serious business within the walls of glass skyscrapers.
A wealthy clientele allowed for further development of the fashion empire. Soon under the designer's umbrella appeared clothing lines for children - Armani Junior and the Armani Jeans collection, as well as a lingerie collection, swimsuits, and accessories. The creation of the Emporio Armani line, which, while maintaining the character of the designer and the quality of the products, was aimed at people with a slightly smaller budget, also proved to be a great success.
American Gigolo and Miami Vice, or men's fashion in the 80s according to Armani
Armani did well in the domestic market, but his real international career began in 1980 after the premiere of the movie "American Gigolo," in which the leading role was played by Richard Gere. It was there that the actor presented a softened form of a men's jacket, which revolutionized the thinking about men's elegance.
On the other hand, the designer gave vent to his fashion addiction, designing, now called kitschy, outfits worn by detectives, Sonny Crockett and Rico Tubbs, in the cult series "Miami Vice."
It is thanks to the Italian designer that we have pastel suits with exaggerated shoulder pads matched with loose T-shirts instead of an ironed white shirt with a tie.
The overriding principle of Armani is to create clothes for people who can use them in everyday life. Subdued colours, simplified but elegant form - these are the hallmark of the brand.
"I wanted to dress women who live and work, not those that appear in pictures" - admits the designer. Following this statement, Giorgio Armani banned models with a body mass index (BMI) exceeding 18 points from walking on the runway - this order was introduced after the tragic death of model Ana Carolina Reston, who starved herself to death as a result of advanced anorexia.
The designer himself says that there are at least two types of creativity - the first is based on a certain unbearable lightness of being an artist, not caring about what the market, consumers or critics dictate; the second is a way of coexisting the designer with the market and intelligently responding to the needs of his clients.
The DNA of the Armani brand is based on this second model, which, while remaining faithful to its ideals, continues to introduce thoughtful improvements and innovations, which are to the liking of its recipients.
When criticized that his collections are predictable and bring nothing new to fashion, he replies: "That's true. But that's my choice. And my stores are still full of people, and my projects can't be copied."
Giorgio Armani is a true Italian who does not speak English, but this did not prevent him from developing a global brand. Today, the Armani empire is valued at around 7 billion dollars, and in addition to clothing lines such as EA7, Emporio Armani, Armani Collezioni, Armani Jeans, Armani Junior, it also includes a network of hotels and cafes, confectioneries and restaurants.
When asked about his biggest life failure, he replied that it was the helplessness he felt at the death of his beloved partner. Although the designer is over 80 years old, he does not think about retirement.