"My definition of beauty is something that lies somewhere between extreme ugliness and absolute fantasy."
- Riccardo Tisci
Somewhere South of Rome
Let's start with the fact that when we talk about southern Italy, we describe this other, poorer country, nothing like the world-famous and vibrant Milan or Turin. Riccardo Tisci was born as the ninth child in a large family in Taranto in 1974. Orphaned early by his father, he was raised by a single mother and a group of older sisters. The house, filled with feminine energy, greatly influenced his design style and thinking about fashion. "I love romance and sensuality, maybe because I have 8 sisters!" he told The New York Times in 2007.
At the age of 11, he abandoned traditional education and moved to an art school in Milan. "At that time, I wanted to express myself, but I felt that I could not do it through words. I was very shy and scared of life" - he told The Daily Telegraph - "Although it sounds bad, I was bored with other children at school, who were mainly playing Pac-Man; I preferred to go home after school and paint or garden with my mom." At 17, he got a ticket to the real world of fashion - he received a scholarship to study at Central Saint Martins School, which he graduated in 1999.
Return Home and High Fashion
After finishing his studies, he returned to Italy and collaborated with brands such as Antonio Berardi, Coccapani, Puma, and Ruffo Research. In 2004, he started working on his own collection, which he presented during the Fashion Week in Milan AW 2005/2006. Although he dreamed of developing a brand under his own name, he received an offer from the management of the Givenchy fashion house. Interestingly, one of the motives for collaborating with the Parisian brand were financial considerations - his beloved family needed financial help.
This pragmatic decision, however, led Tisci to the very top of the fashion industry. He breathed new life into Givenchy, a brand that had previously stumbled under the management of Julien Macdonald and Alexander McQueen. The management liked the Italian designer's aesthetics and way of creating so much that in 2008, they also entrusted him with the direction of the men's prêt-à-porter and accessories department.
Riccardo admits that when he started working with Givenchy, he was extremely terrified by the pressure put on him. However, he told himself that he was there to learn from people who have been creating haute couture their whole lives. For the last 4 years, Tisci has stopped creating high fashion collections, focusing instead on preparing ready-to-wear clothing.
From Goth Choice to Romantic by Birth
"If you saw my photos from when I was 14, you would see that I was a skinny goth with long black hair" - he told Vouge. His gothic preferences can be seen in every line he creates. Tisci's creations are filled with romance, melancholy, and a touch of darkness. The designer loves to shock, so he often smuggles motifs related to religion, alternating with fetishistic associations, into his designs.
In 2010, he shocked the world by featuring the first transgender model in his show - Lea T., who had previously worked as the designer's assistant. And how to describe the woman for whom the designer creates? This is a woman who is aware of her sexuality, who composes her style with both romantic blouses and elements of men's clothing - as Tisci himself admits, similar to his sisters. The designer's eternal muse is his friend, supermodel Mariacarla Boscono. She guides the creator's unconventional ideas in the right directions, giving him insight into the female psyche.
Riccardo Tisci is also a music lover, which is why he designs costumes for Madonna or Rihanna, and even the cover of Jay-Z and Kanye West's album.
Today, Tisci treats the Givenchy brand as his own brand, which is clearly felt in the creations designed by Givenchy.
