Wild, wild West!
Did you know that cowboy boots were first worn in Europe? Classic men’s boots associated with the remote Wild West in the early times of the United States arrived to America on the feet of 16th-century conquistadors. Spanish cavalrymen wore boots with a high shaft and an angled heel for horse riding.
However, Columbus’s expedition is only one of the explanations. Some say that cowboy boots evolved from Wellington boots, named after Arthur Wellesley, Duke of Wellington, who defeated the great Napoleon at Waterloo.
Wellington’s troops wore unusual boots with an angled heel, which became cavalry’s favourite, also in the South of the New World. But how did the boots get there? It is probable that they were worn by soldiers returning home after the Civil War.
Functional, comfortable, calf-length leather boots with an angled heel turned out to be useful for cowboys – they were good for steering horses. As fashion developed and the popularity of westerns grew, Wellington boots started to be decorated with colourful ornaments, stitching details and embossed patterns.
The length of the upper and toe shape changed as well – from rounded to pointed or square toe. Most importantly, boots started to be worn by women who performed male-dominated jobs.
How did Valentino restore faith in cowboy boots?
With time fashion changed, but original hand-made cowboy boots are still associated with the South Central United States, which inherited their traditional values from cattlemen. For some, this tradition was a sign of belonging to a certain social group of the conservative South, for others – it became an interesting, native element of the American folklore, which started seeping into fashion as a novelty.
Cowboy boots both for women and men are one of the trends of the 21st century fashion hated today – they come from the times when denim dresses and skirt suits could be seen on the red carpet. It’s difficult to say if cowboy boots were ever completely out of fashion – the fashion avant-garde, which does not follow trends blindly, often made use of traditional vintage cowboy boots to create unique looks.
So, how did it happen that 2016 was announced by the fashion bible – Vogue – as the year cowboy boots made a comeback? It was all thanks to Maria Grazia Chiuri, at the time one of the creative directors of Valentino’s menswear collection. After the January menswear show, she appeared on the catwalk in a black oversize sweater, a layered midi skirt and… classic black cowboy boots with a straight upper.
Vogue editors praised the designer’s fresh and yet classic look. It turns out that traditional cowboy boots are a classic – if put together with the right outfit.
American classics according to YSL and Isabel Marant
It seems that other designers agree on the comeback of the cowgirl boots – they have been presenting their takes on the American classic for the last few seasons.
Leather boots with a Cuban heel are Isabel Marant’s favourite. Their 2017 winter collection includes thigh-high cowboy boots made of black suede with a comfortable, angled heel.
Marant also created a series of modern cowboy boots with a higher, triangular heel. The uppers, decorated with traditional ornaments, are slightly flared and ankle-high. The collection includes some classics as well – mid-calf boots with a straight upper made of suede and grain leather on a comfortable, low, angled heel.
In turn, the Saint Laurent Paris collection combines the Western tradition with current trends. Their cowboy boots are ankle-high and you can get them in reflective silver-tone.
Cowboy boots – hot or not?
Although there are as many opinions about cowboy boots as there are stitching details and patterns on their uppers, we have to hand it to them – they’ve made their presence known in the history of fashion. Because of that, it is difficult to say if they’re a fashion blessing or curse.
One thing is for sure – the fact that cowboy boots keep cropping up in collections around the world makes them a phenomenon we can’t pass by indifferently.
