It all started from... more muscular silhouettes.
Before the period of great wars of the 20th century, men did not care about emphasizing their silhouette. Physical robustness was reserved for bodybuilders and strength athletes, and the canon of male beauty demanded that men be tall and slim. They hid in spacious coats without cuts at the waist. In the 1920s, soldiers, preparing their bodies for trench warfare, gained more and more muscle, and their previous attires did not fit the new silhouettes. Therefore, military coats were characterized by broad shoulders and waist narrowing, often emphasized with a thick leather belt. This is how the cut of the first military coat was outlined.
Genre Classic: Trench Coat
It's hard to believe that this classic and elegant coat model comes from military ranks. The trench coat is to this day the signature proposal of Burberry, both in men's and women's editions. No wonder that it was this brand that claimed the right to be the creator of the pioneering design of this coat. However, it is disputed by the brand Aquascutum, which claims that the first project of a trench coat was created back in 1850.
However, it is Thomas Burberry who is the creator of gabardine - a woolen fabric with a diagonal weave, so characteristic for this coat model. It was also Thomas Burberry who sold the design of the rainproof coat to the British army at the beginning of the 20th century. It became a coveted, but not obligatory element of the wardrobe of higher-ranking officers and was supposed to distinguish them against the army background.
The coat has undergone numerous modifications over the years, including the incorporation of functional epaulettes, which became a place for badges and patches. Then, other countries also started introducing their variations on the trench coat. The trench coat is usually buttoned with 10 buttons arranged in two rows, although this is increasingly dependent on the length of the coat, which can reach from mid-thigh to the ankles.
The trench coat traditionally came in muted colors, such as khaki, black, ash beige. The military style also remains associated with the classic interpretation of the trench coat, but eccentric brands like to bet on dominant colors.
Storm Protection - Peacoat and Duffel Coat
These two fully functional, but different in design coats come from the ranks of the navy. Peacoat is a traditional, short coat, reaching to the hips, worn by Danish and then adapted by American sailors.
In the classic version, it is double-breasted with large wooden or metal buttons. Its wide and stiff collar was designed to protect sailors from the wind - when raised, it creates an insurmountable barrier. It is made of thick, impermeable wool, and most often appeared in navy blue.
Duffel coat, or Polish Budrysówka, was worn by the British naval forces. Similar to the peacoat, it is made of thick wool. Protection against wind and water was provided by a spacious hood. However, the most characteristic feature of the Budrysówka is its fastening with wooden or plastic pegs, which are threaded through leather loops. The Budrysówka can reach from the hip line to the knees in length.
